Tribal hand woven fabrics of Manipur
- Part 14 -
By: Mutua Bahadur *
Tangkhul
The Tangkhul have eleven kinds of cloths. The cloths are
Houra (Fig. 131),
Chongkhom (Fig. 130),
Niha, Seichang Kasan, Phuirei Kasan (Fig. 126),
Kamo Kasan (Fig. 132),
Chingdaiman Shingla Kasan (Fig. 129),
Phangyai Kasan (Fig. 127),
Kongra Kasan (Fig. 156),
Phorei Kasan (Fig. 128) and
Moga.
Despite variation among individual villages relating to the cloth names and interpretation of designs, the Tangkhul cloths exhibit ubiquitous characteristics. At present, there is a common Tangkhul language and there are common names vis-a-vis inter-village names for these cloths.
The major portion of the Tangkhul cloths is red which is complemented by white and black. The discerning design of most of the Tangkhul cloths is Phorei (spear head). Houra which is known as Larum by the Kangkum villagers is used by the menfolk as shawl. In ancient days, the fanek known as Kamo Kasan or Khrute (as known at Kangkum) was worn only during dance.
But at present, it is worn at other times too. Not only Phorei, it comprises of such designs as Atengkhe (cheek of bird), Tashet Tathe (seed of cucumber), Langkapphet (men’s head gear with horn made of bamboo split). It is worn while participating in post-death rituals in the following year, etc.
Kongra Kasam or Konti Ngasen (as known at Kangkum) is a Tangkhul skirt (fanek) having a pattern depicting boat in a rivulet (the literal meaning of Kongra is rivulet; Hi means boat). It is the customary wear of the Kangkums during funeral occasions. Another Tangkhul fanek is Phuirei Kasan or Khuata Ngeshen (as known at Kangkum).
It has designs representing an insect of bee family and the design is known locally as Khuata Shen. However, the same design is interpreted by the Tangkhuls at Kasom Khullen as Thamoleikap (crab).
Chongkhom is a common cloth used by both men and women. Phangyai Kasan, Phorei Kasan, Chingdaiman Shingla Kasan are the other varieties of fanek. Phangyai Kasan is the one having the pattern of Harakhan (throat of bird) and Chingchala (pronged house pillar). Moga is a black cloth with no designs and is used by the Tangkhul women while dancing. The men dancers also use a red cloth known as Niha which also has no designs.
See a gallery photo of Tribal hand woven fabrics of Manipur here.
To be continued ....
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* Mutua Bahadur contributes to e-pao.net regularly. This article was webcasted on February 19, 2013.
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