It was a long drive from Imphal to Maram Centre (80 km) in Senapati district through the much potholed NH 39. If the condition of the road is any yardstick to measure the condition of the people living in the area, no wonder then their disgruntlement with the State Government sitting in Imphal.

We took the steep gravel-filled, curving road and drove uphill. The driver looked up the speedometer and said it was a little above 5 km. We waited a while before entering the house in Khullakpa Sagai. We were waved in heartily as we reached there.

The Sangkijang hills of Maram have seen many wonderful and strong women. Of the past, songs about Mekenei -- whom the valley legend makers know as Engellei –still reverberates in both the hills and valley of the State.

Today the hills are home to a queen, now frail in body but with an indomitable spirit that surpasses most leaders that the State of Manipur has seen.

Now in her 80s, Hinga Karangnamei is the chieftain of Maram Khullen in Senapati district, ruling over 27 Maram Naga tribes. In fact she is the only female chieftain among the Naga tribes in the state.

“I must be around 80 years. My parents -- father Thuiba and mother Sanga – were traditional farmers. I was their only child, born and brought up in Katamei.

When I was very young, about two or three years old my father died. My mother died after I got married. I married when I was about 18, 19 or was it 20 years. It was the year following the Japan war.

They gave four sows as bride price. Like me my husband Karang – heir to the throne -- too had lost his father at a young age. His grandfather, Kangkalugi, was the chief then.

I had many children but four of them died when they were very young in an epidemic. Only Namba, who is now about 50 year old, survived.

My husband too died when my eldest son wasn’t even able to carry his next siblings. Eldest son to eldest son – that is the hierarchy. But after my husband’s death (in 1965) I was made the queen.

Even if my son is there, I will be queen until I die, then he will take over and be the next chief. I never thought of remarriage. I had this beautiful little son. I had to bring him up, how could I think of marrying again? A widow can remarry but with the approval of the relatives and clan.

Most of my people have converted to Christianity, but they still respect me a lot. My main role as queen is to see that customary rules and regulations are maintained, rituals are being observed, and finally to predict the time for the harvest etc.

Only after I go to the field first, then the others will follow. Everything, all functions have a specific time frame. Even weaving and games also have seasons, if these are broken, then the wrongdoers are fined.

I also bless the paddy before every sowing and harvesting through a lady friend who would collect paddy on my behalf. She would take half as her own.

If there are certain customs which are of no use to us, I have the right to do away with it, such as during renovation or making a new house. Even a murderer who runs into my house is ensured protection.

A chief has many roles -- administrative, secular and religious roles. But my main role is rituals performance; for example, during the sickness of a person, and purification rituals if someone dies at hospital, in case of epidemic etc.

If the king were alive, he could participate in the discussions in a case conducted by the court, Salikilung, but I cannot. The council comprising representatives of the king’s clan called the sugungki hangna, discuss and decide the case, but I get the information. Another council at the village level is the body represented by a male member of all the clans.

As the queen, I lead a much disciplined life dedicated to the service of the people. I cannot eat what others cook for me. I cook myself and do all my work on my own as per the custom. Drinking water is the biggest problem.

I go downhill for about 2 km to get water. I cannot weave, but what my relatives and others offer as gift, I can wear those. Apart from that I cannot eat pork, dog meat, wild animals, mushroom etc. The main restriction is on food and travel.

In olden days we used to produce chilli, cotton and paddy. Potatoes, etc., we would barter with the people from Mao. Now we have started growing potatoes and other vegetables too in our fields.”

Pei Hinga has been instrumental in bringing about various social changes in the Maram society. In 1968 she banned the traditional practice of “M-bong katai” under which a woman undergoing a difficult labour used to be taken out of the house and kept alone outside, lest her death should defile the whole house.

If the woman should die she would be buried by someone else on hire and all her belongings thrown away. In 1975, the queen also gave consent to intermarriage among the different khel of the Marams, besides encouraging early plantation.

The Maram tribe is one of the oldest Naga tribe in Manipur. Maram Khullen village is the origin of Maram village, which was once recorded to be the biggest village of Manipur. With the British and Manipuri influence it was divided into Mathak Sagai, Makha Sagai and Khullakpa Sagai.

(The writer is indebted to the Naga Women’s Union, Manipur and the Maram Women’s Union, Manipur for this article.)