Handloom is any loom other than Powerloom
- Part 3 -
With overviews on the handlooms of Assam and Manipur

Sougrakpam Bhubol *

Leirum Phee (Lengyan) :: Photo - Gandhi Naoremcha

Manipur Handloom:

The weavers of Manipur have a rich history of creating exquisite and intricate handloom textiles that have gained recognition. Some of the famous handloom products of Manipur are Phanek (Sarong), Rani Phee (an expensive shawl made from silk), Innaphee (a type of shawl) Wangkhei Phee (a type of shawl made from cotton), Moirangphee, silk saree, Saphee Lanphee (a traditional shawl that was presented to victorious warriors after a war by the King), Khudei (dhoti), etc.

Among the handloom products, three have been given a Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the government for their protection. The three products are Moirangphee, Wangkhei phee, and Saphee Lanphee. According to the Fourth Handloom Census 2019-20, the number of female weavers constitutes the highest with 2,04,503 against their male counterparts which account for only 7,936. The transgender weavers have a negligible number of 37 weavers. Weaving in the State is a female-dominated sector.

Weavers by Type of Employment:

Independent Weavers	2,06,322	97.1 %
Cooperative Society	487	0.23 %
Master Weaver	5,446	2.56 %
Others	226	0.11 %
Total	2,12,481	100 %

(Source: 4th Handloom Census (Dr. Gour Gopal Banik1, Neeta Longjam)

The above data shows that 97.1 % of the weavers work individually. The weavers who work under master weavers and cooperative society constitute 2.56% and 0.23% respectively. The weavers who work under another organization (Khadi and Village Board and State Handloom Development Corporation) constitute 0.11 % only. The weavers of the State are working using their own finances and earning income independently.

Handloom Household & Source of Loan:

Source of Loan	Weaver
Friends/Relatives	1,097
Master Weaver	26
Money Lenders	285
Co-operative Society	49
Government	28
Commercial Banks	30
Others	60
Total	1,575

As seen in the above table, only 1,575 handloom households out of the total 2,21,855 in the State took loans from various sources for their weaving activities. This shows that the remaining households use their own funds for their weaving activities. Even though there are various government credit facilities and schemes, most weavers still depend on their own sources of finance. Likewise, as done in Assam, the Directorate of Handloom and Textiles takes up various central and state sponsored schemes in the state.

MANIPUR HANDLOOM AT A GLANCE:
(In reference to the 4th Handloom Census):

1. Distribution of handloom worker households by type =2,21,855.
(2). Total workforce by type of handloom workers and gender
(i). Male Weaver = 12,098,
(ii). Allied Worker =5,383,
(iii). Female Weaver =2,04,508,
(iv). Transgender =37.

(3). Distribution of handloom worker households by religion =2,21,855,
(i). Hindu =1,17,640,
(ii). 23,052,
(iii). Jain =12,
(iv). Sikh =77,
(v). Christian=65,468,
(v). Buddhist =132,
(vi). Zoroastrian =20,
(vii). Others =15,454.

(4). Distribution of handloom worker households by social groups =2,21,855,
(i). Scheduled castes (SCs) =7,421,
(ii). Scheduled Tribe (STs) =65,816,
(iii). Other backward castes (OBCs) =95,781,
(iv), Others = 52,807.

(5). Distribution of handloom worker households by Antodaya card=2,21,855
(i). Yes =20,585,
(ii). No =2,01,270.

(6). Distribution of handloom worker households by type of dwelling units =2,21,855,
(i). Kuccha =1,78,366,
(ii). Semi-pucca =9,964,
(iii). Pucca =33,525

(7). Distribution of handloom worker households by ownership of dwelling units =2,21,855,
(i). Own =2,08,503,
(ii). Rented =11,368,
(iii). Others =1,984

(8). Distribution of handloom households by income from all sources =2,21,855,
(i). Less than 5,000 =96,618,
(ii). 5,001- 10,000 =9,124,
(iii). 10,001- 15,000 =27,026,
(iv). 15,001-20,000 =4,927,
(v). 20,001-25,000 =1,734,
(vi). 25,001- 50,000 =515,
(vii),50,000-1,00,000 =65,
(viii). Above 1,00,000 =18,

(9). Distribution of handloom households by income from handloom-related activities
(i). Less than 5,00 =1,76,492,
(ii).5,001-10,000 =35,369,
(iii). 10,001- 15,000 =9,726
(iv).15,001- 20,000 =215,
(v). 20,001- 25,000 =37,
(vi) 25,001- 50,000 =14,
(vii). 50,000- 1,00,000 =2,
(viii). Above 1,00,000 =0.

(10). Distribution of handloom households in debt and purpose of debt =2,634
(i). handloom=1,141,
(ii). Other purposes =1,059,
(iii). Both =434.

(11). Distribution of handloom households by source of loan =1,575
(i). Co-operative societies = 49,
(ii). Commercial banks =30,
(iii). Friends/ relatives = 1,097,
(iv). Government =28,
(v). Master weaver=26,
(vi). Money lender=285,
(vii). Others =33,
(viii). Self-Help Groups (SHG) =27.

(12). Average household size by handloom worker household =4.89.

(13). Distribution of handloom households by usage of yarn=
(i). Cotton 1to20 = 63,670,
(ii). Cotton 21to40 = 31,977,
(iii). Cotton 41to80 =14,075,
(iv). Cotton Above80 =9,340,
(v). Viscose Blends =389,
(vi). Muga Silk=51,033,
(vii). Eric Silk=8,329,
(viii). Mulberry Silk =5,618,
(ix). Tussar Silk =1,538,
(x). Linen =1,401,
(xi). Wool=37,498,
(xii). Acrylic Wool =47,679,
(xiii). Polyester Blends =15,949,
(xiv). Jute =420,
(xv). Zari =5,977,
(xvi). Others =29,859.

(14). Distribution of handloom households reporting major source of input for Hank Yarn, Dyes and Chemicals =
Hank Yarn:
(i). Open Market=1,36,929,
(ii). Master Weaver =2,780,
(iii). Co-operative Society = 130,
(iv). National State Handloom Development Corporation =102,
(v). KVIC / KVIB =23,
(vi). Others =21,261,

Dyed & Chemicals:
(i). Open Market = 31,238,
(ii) Master Weaver = 4,084,
(iii). Co-operative Society =48,
(iv). National State Handloom Development Corporation =15,
(v). KVIC / KVIB=1,
(vi). Others=2,927.

(15). Distribution of handloom households reporting major source of input for Dyed Yarn:
(i). Open Market = 65,264,
(ii). Master Weaver=2,199,
(iii). Co-operative Society=14,
(iv). National/State Handloom Development Corporation=53.
(v). KVIC/KVIB=36,
(vi). Others=4,882.

(16). Distribution of handloom households by type of dye used:
(i). Azo Free=15,141,
(ii). Natural=125,763,
Others=13,317
(iii) Not Applicable=74,226.

(17). Distribution of handloom households reporting major source of sales of their major products:
(i). Local market=2,06,828,
(ii). Master weaver=10,251,
(iii). Co-operative Society=865,
(iv). Organized fairs/ exhibitions-=81,
(v). Export=70,
(vi). E-Commerce=174,
(vii). Others=28,791.

(18). Distribution of handloom households by the membership of Co-operative Society, Self Help Group/ Joint Liability Group, and Producer Company:
(i). Member of any Cooperative Society=3,600,
(ii). Self Help Group / Joint Liability Group=7275,
(iii). 2,745.

(19). Distribution of weaver households by possession of looms=2,11,148
(i). With Loom=1,86,552,
(ii). Without Loom=24,596,

(20). Distribution of weaver households by type of looms=2,15,397.

PIT LOOMS:
(i). Pit loom with Dobby/ Jacquard= 33,045,
(ii). Other Pit Looms= 18,840,

FRAME LOOMS:
(i). Frame loom with Dobby/ Jacquard=43,178
(ii). Other Frame looms= 21,316,

LOIN LOOMS=69,743,
(ii). Others=29,275,

(21). Distribution of weaver households by purpose of usage of loom=
(i). Domestic=43,205,
(ii). commercial=133,815,
(iii) Both=9,532,

(22). Distribution of weaver households by production of major fabrics=2,34,986,
(i). Dhoti, Sarong, Lungi, Angavastram =1,10,770,
(ii). Saree =15,690,
(ii). Dress materials, Suiting, Shirting, Long Cloth 16,551,
(iii). Towel/Napkin, Duster Gamcha = 20,575,
(iv). Bedsheet, Furnishings, Blanket =14,704,
(v). Shawls Mekhla Chadder Loi/Stole Scarf Muffler =38,737,
(vi). Durries, Rugs, Mats =1,256,
(vii). Others (including Bandage) =16,703,

(23). Weaver households report average production of major fabric per weaver per day (Meters) =2,24,684,
(i). Average in Meters: Rural =5.92,
(ii). Urban =5.88.

(24). Number of handloom workers by religion =
(i). Hindu=1,18,365,
(ii). Muslim =23,112,
(iii). Sikh =79,
(iii). Christian =67,446
(iv). Buddhist =133,
(v).12,
(vi). Zoroastrian =20,
(vi). Others =15,517,

(25). Number of handloom workers by social group =2,24,684,
(i). Schedule Caste =7,518,
(ii) Sum of Schedule Tribe =67,798,
(iii). OBC =96,204,
(iv). Others =53,164,

(26). Number of handloom workers by education =2,24,684,
(i). Never attended school =27,755,
(ii). Below Primary =16,135,
(iii). Primary =27,573,
(iv). Middle =61,649,
(v). High School/Higher Secondary =46,342,
(vi). Higher Secondary =27,191,
(vii). Graduation & Above =18,039.

(27). Number of handloom workers having bank account =224,684,
(i). Bank Account- Yes=53,937,
(ii). Bank Account-No=170,747.

(28). Number of handloom workers having Aadhar card =2,24,684,
(i). Adhar Card Issued - Yes =2,17,186,
(ii). Adhar Card Issued - No=7,498.

(29). Number of handloom workers by nature of engagement =2,24,684
(i). Full Time =1,37,349,
(ii). Part Time=87,335

(30). Number of handloom workers by employment status =2,24,684,
(i). Independent =2,16,859,
(ii). Under Master Weaver =6,991,
(iii). Under Khadi & Village Industries Commission/ board =101,
(iv). Under State Handloom Development Corporation =230,
(v). Under co-operative Society =503.

To be continued...

---

* Sougrakpam Bhubol wrote this article for e-pao.net
The writer (Sougrakpam Bhubol) was formerly Chairman of National Research Centre (NRC), Manipur,
Vice-President of the Manipur Apex Handloom Weavers and Handicrafts Artisans' C.S. Ltd.,
and presently, President of the Shintha Handlooms and Handicrafts C.S. Ltd.
Thongju-II, Imphal East, Manipur, and
Secretary of All Manipur Columnists' Union (AMCU).
He can be contacted to shinthangl(AT)gmail(DOT)com
This article was webcasted on 18 January 2024 .

---