Elephanta Caves

S Balakrishnan *

The Elephanta Island near Mumbai, I presumed till this moment, was named so after its shape. The fact is there was a life-size monolithic elephant sculpture and, therefore, the Portuguese called the island Elephanta. It is, otherwise, called Gharapuri (City of Caves) by the local Koli fisher folk.

The colonial rulers (Portuguese or British?) tried to steal (take away) this elephant to their land but the chain gave up and the elephant broke into several pieces. The fragments were later brought to mainland Bombay by the British, joined together and placed at the Victoria Gardens (now Jija Mata Gardens).

The 16 sq. km island, host to civilisation since 2nd century BC, has brick-built Buddhist stupas of that period as well as rock-cut caves of 5th/6th century AD. This, in short, is the (hi)story of the island that has two hillocks with a valley in between; it had once been a capital and was under various rulers.

The two hills are called the Gun Hill and the Stupa Hill respectively as the former has two canons of the Portuguese atop and the latter the Buddhist stupas.

While the stupa site has not been systematically explored, the cave site, though damaged much by the Portuguese, is preserved & protected. Hailed as the highest combination of aesthetic beauty and sculptural art full of expression, the Elephanta Caves have been inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Centre.

Cave 1 (27 sq. metre in area and supported by 6x6 pillars) is the most noteworthy wherein the masterpiece is the 7-metre-tall Sadashiva/Trimurti statue. This statue represents Shiva’s three aspects as Aghora or Bhairava (fearsome), Tatpurusha/Mahadeva (meditative) and Vamadeva (mild/lovable).

Also called Trimurti (three gods), it could also represent Brahma, Siva and Vishnu, the Trinity of Creator, Destroyer and Protector.

Cave 1 has a Shivalinga altar at its centre surrounded by fifteen reliefs; of these nine are identified with important events in Shiva’s life like the cosmic dancer Nataraja, Yogishvara, slaying of Andhakasura, Ardhanarishwara, Kalyanasundaramurti (His wedding), Gangadharamurti (bringing down River Ganges to the earth), and Ravana shaking Kailasa which are also notable for their forms, dimensions, themes, alignment and skillful execution.

Other reliefs include that of His two sons Ganesha and Kartikeya, and Saptamatas (Seven Mother Goddesses). Another opinion relates the monument to the mystic Pashupata Sect of Shaivism. In all there are seven caves in both these hills but except Cave 1 others are either highly damaged or left with insignificant art work or plain caves for meditation/hermitage.

The 10 km. sea distance between Gateway of India and Elephanta Island jetty is traversed in roughly an hour. The Archaeological Survey of India protected monuments are open from 9 AM to 5 PM with Monday being closed. The ferry service is discontinued during monsoon season (June-August).

These two monuments – Gateway of India and the Trimurti Statue – form the emblem of Maharashtra Tourism Dept. The Island has a population of about 1,200 who are mainly engaged in their traditional occupations of farming, fishing, and repairing boats.

I practically had no idea what Elephanta held when I visited in 1989; you see, there was no internet then to Google. So I was awestruck when I saw what the caves held. With the analog camera I had to count each click. Neither could we spend much time as we arrived late, what with my 9-month-old kid and my wife’s aged grandparents. However, it was an enjoyable outing with a ferry ride for a change.

We had to trudge some distance from the Island’s jetty and then climb steps also to Cave 1; now there is a toy train service, I understand. Courtesy my wife’s uncle (who was in Bombay then, now it is Mumbai) we had a comfortable & free Board & Lodge! In fact that was my hidden agenda!

That was my first LTC (Leave Travel Concession) travel with family from whence we insanely travelled across to explore Incredible India. Our daughter, who was born later, still complains that she was left out but her brother enjoyed it!

Poor boy, he was just 9 months old to remember anything; for that matter neither do I after 32 years. It is time I recaptured Elephanta Caves; but that uncle is not in Mumbai now. Well, not one but two of my cousins are there who will, I hope, gladly host my trips to not only Elephanta but Ajanta & Ellora as well!